Showing posts with label winter holiday. Show all posts
Showing posts with label winter holiday. Show all posts

Tuesday, 4 March 2014

"안녕하세요 - Annyeonghasaeyo". Seoul, South Korea - Day 8 & 9 : Gyeongbok-gung & the journey home

This is the last post of the report for my recent trip to Seoul, South Korea. If you have any questions, please feel free to post your question in the comments section, I will try my best to answer.

The earlier reports are as follow:
Part 0: Planning
Part 1: Setting foot in Seoul
Part 2: Skiing in Yongpyong
Part 3: COEX Aquarium & Namsan Tower
Part 4: The Korean DMZ
Part 5: Visiting Changdeok-gung

Gyeongbok-gung

This is the last full day of our trip in Seoul. We spent the whole day walking in and around the palace ground of Gyeongbok-gung. The palace is slightly smaller than Forbidden City in Beijing, China, but is still quite huge.

To reach the palace, take Seoul Subway's Orange line to Gyeongbokgung station and use exit no 5. You'll exit around 150m west of the main gate. Make sure you reach the palace main gate 5 to 10 minutes from the hour, as there will be hourly change of guards ceremony from 10 am to 4 pm.




Note the difference in the palace layout with Changdeok-gung. Gyeongbok-gung palace follows the traditional orientation of palaces in China, in which the centre axis of the palace follows closely in the North-South direction, with the main gate facing the South.

Changing of guard ceremony
As pointed out in the earlier post, the Japanese occupation in the early 1900s destroyed many of the palace buildings. Reconstruction effors are still ongoing when we visited in mid Jan 2014. Therefore, there are still large areas of empty land in the palace grounds.

The main gate of the palace is named Gwanghwamun, from which visitors enter. From there, there are 2 more gates, Heungnyemun and Geunjeongmun before you reach the outer court, where the Throne Hall (Geungjeongjeon) is located.

Heungnyemun
The outer court with the Throne Room in the centre. The effect on the picture is because we used the Surround Mode on Galaxy Note 3's camera which gives the effect of Google's Street View when viewed on the phone. This is "flattened" version of the image.
Even though the throne room is not the original one, it is still very impressive, with various paintings and carvings lining the walls and ceiling. The throne itself sits at an elevated platform and has all the makings of the seat of power of a dynasty. We didn't take any pictures of the throne room because there are throbs of tourists who are packing the front of the room, making it very difficult to take any decent pictures of the room.

Behind the Throne Hall is the inner court where the king's and queen's quarters lies. Also here is where the king's mother's quarters are located.






We spent the rest of the morning and early afternoon exploring the palace ground, after which we went to the National Palace Museum of Korea located on the south-western corner of the palace. If you're a history buff and like to spent hours looking at historical exhibit, then this is the place to learn all that there is on Joseon dynasty and royal life. And not to mention, admission is FREE!!! You can opt to sent an automatic audio guide (activated by RFID) for KRW 1,000 (USD 1), which is extremely value for money for the wealth of information you're going to get.

Another museum located in the palace grounds is the National Folk Museum of Korea, but since we do not have the time for 2 museums AND the palace grounds in 1 day, we decided to skip that for now. But it should be worth checking out for those who are interested in Korean folk history.

Directly opposite the Gwanghamun is an underground complex highlighting the life of King Sejong the Great and Admiral Yi Sun-Sin, both being prominent characters during the Joseon Dynasty. Again, if you have the time, this is also worth visiting.

Around the corner from Gyeongbok-gung is one of the most famous Korean Ginseng Chicken (Samgyetang) restaurant in Seoul called Tosokchon. As it is ranked number 17 in Seoul on Tripadvisor, you will not only find a long queue in front of the restaurant during the lunch and dinner hours, you will also find that most of their customers are tourists. Nevertheless, there are still a handful of local Seoul-ites in the restaurant when we visited at around 3pm (which is somewhat a good thing).




There are only 3 items on the menu in Tosokchon
The soup is cooked with an assortment of herbs and has a rather milky or creamy texture. The chicken itself is stuffed with Korean Ginseng and glutinous rice, which give the soup it's creamy texture.

To most of us from Singapore who are more used to the clear type of ginseng soup, the soup may be some sort of a surprise. So due to this, I rather have a mixed liking to the soup. On one hand, the taste and smell of the herbs is heavenly, but the milky texture is something which I need to grow to like. The chicken though, is heavenly. Cooked to perfection, the meat is easily separated from the bone, but not overcooked until it's mushy.

Samgeytang served in stone pot, which retains heat well and keeps the soup warm
As with many restaurants in Korea, there is always kimchi with an assortment of other side dishes served with the main course. Lastly, a note for those who want to avoid carbs or wanted to try more Korean street food(who wouldn't?), the glutinous rice can be VERY VERY FILLING.

Unfortunately, for dinner that night, we randomly chose a restaurant and ended up with a rather unimpressive one in Myeongdong, which isn't worth mentioning. But my wife did end the day happy with all her shopping which we leave until the last night. We also pop by Lotte Supermarket to buy tidbits to bring back to home.

The most expensive apple i've seen. KRW 88,000 (USD 88) for 12 pcs
The next morning, we woke up early for our 11 am flight to KUL and SIN. We took the same bus from the hotel to Incheon Airport and checked in without fuss using the business class counter.

No queue for business class counter
What took us by surprise was the queue to clear airport security and immigration. It took us almost 30 minutes to clear both security and immigration, leaving us almost no time to do our tax refund and enjoy the business class lounge. As an airport which consistently ranked within the top 5 airports in the world, I don't understand how can this go so badly.

Thankfully, everything went smooth after that. We boarded and found our seats at the front section of the aircraft, enjoyed the pre-flight drinks and pushed back from the gate on time.

Our ride to KUL. Another Airbus A330-300

Full load, even in business class
As usual, the food served onboard is excellent. Never once we felt hungry on the flight.









After an uneventful 6 hours flight, we landed at KUL and proceed straight to the newly renovated KLIA Golden Lounge at the Satellite Terminal. The lounge is huge and has plenty of food and drinks available. 3 hours later, we boarded the B737-800 for the last leg of our journey home.

Note to my readers, I've been rather busy with work commitments lately. Once I have the time, I will post my food experience in Seoul. Also, I've another upcoming post on Penang, which I visited 2 weeks ago. Look out for it here.

Sunday, 23 February 2014

"안녕하세요 - Annyeonghasaeyo". Seoul, South Korea - Day 7 : Changdeok-gung

This is the second last post of the report for my recent trip to Seoul, South Korea. If you have any questions, please feel free to post your question in the comments section, I will try my best to answer.


The earlier reports are as follow:
Part 0: Planning
Part 1: Setting foot in Seoul
Part 2: Skiing in Yongpyong
Part 3: COEX Aquarium & Namsan Tower
Part 4: The Korean DMZ

Changdeok-gung palace

We reserved the last 2 days of our stay in Seoul for visiting of the 2 main Joseon Dynasty imperial palaces.

The Korean Peninsula was ruled by the Joseon Dynasty from AD 1392 to 1897 with it's capital in modern day Seoul. After which, it came under Japanese rule until the surrender of the Japanese Forces in World War 2.

There are 5 palaces located in Modern Day Seoul. They are Gyeongbok-gung (경복궁), Changdeok-gung (창덕궁), Deoksu-gung (덕수궁), Changyeong-gung (창경궁) and Gyeonghui-gung (경희궁).

The biggest and grandest of them all are the Gyeongbok-gung, which served as the seat of power of Joseon from 1395 until it was razed by the Japanese invasion in 1592. The royal seat then moved to Changdeok-gung for the next three centuries while Gyeongbok-gung lies in ruins. In 1867, the restoration of Gyeongbok-gung was completed and the seat of power once again moved back to Gyeongbok-gung.

Both palaces suffers extensive damages in the Japanese occupation of Korea from 1897 to 1945 with many of the original buildings destroyed. In the late 1980s, the government of South Korea started the restoration of the Joseon palaces, thus most of the buildings we see now are in it's re-built state.

Following advices from a friend, we reserved 1 day each for visiting Gyeongbok-gung and Changdeok-gung. 

The first palace we visit is Changdeok-gung, to reach there, take subway Orange line to Anguk station, exit number 3 and walk east about 100m to the main entrance. Ticket price costs KRW 3,000 for adults, KRW 1,500 for youths 7-24 year olds and free for children below 7 years old.


Walking direction from Anguk Station to Changdeok-gung main entrance. (View Larger Map)

What makes this palace unique as compared to other east asian palaces of the time is that instead of terra-forming the surrounding terrain to suit palace architecture, the designers of this palace designed the buildings according to the surrounding environment. Therefore, there is very little symmetry along the north-south axis so prevalent among east asian palaces such as Gyeongbok-gung and Forbidden City in Beijing, China.


Map of Changdeok-gung. Notice the lack of symmetry in the palace layout.
Building of the throne room
Throne room of the king
The bridge in the foreground is called Geumcheongyo Bridge. Built in AD 1411, it the oldest bridge in Seoul.


One thing not to be missed when visiting Changdeok-gung is the "Huwon (rear palace)" behind the main palace grounds which are only accessible via "Secret Garden" guided tour. Guided tour costs an additional KRW 5,000 and must be booked in advance from their website and is available in Korea, English, Chinese and Japanese languages.

Walking direction to the "Secret Garden" entrance
Entrance to the "Secret Garden"





Temperatures below zero means walking on the frozen pond is now possible.








The (now dry) moat surrounding the palace grounds
One of the oldest tree in the palace grounds, the Hyangnamu. Estimated to be 700 years old.
Next, visiting Gyeongbokgung

Thursday, 20 February 2014

"안녕하세요 - Annyeonghasaeyo". Seoul, South Korea - Day 6 : The Korean DMZ

This is the 4th part of my Seoul, South Korea series. The earlier parts can be found in the following links. If you have any questions, please feel free to post your question in the comments section, I will try my best to answer.


Part 0 - Planning
Part 1 - Day 1 and 2: Setting foot in Seoul
Part 2 - Day 3 and 4: Skiing at YongPyong
Part 3 - COEX Aquarium & Namsan Tower

Into the Korean DMZ

The next morning, we woke up early for the DMZ tour, which we booked from Panmunjeom Travel Centre.

Note to readers: To better understand the division between North Korea (DPRK) and South Korea (ROK), you can read in more details on the Division of Korea at Wikipedia.

There are 3 locations which most tour companies will bring tourists to. The first - and most exciting - is the Joint Security Area (JSA) , the second one is Dorasan train station and observatory, and the last is the 3rd infiltration tunnel.

Most tour company will offer a combination or all 3 tours. For those who are in town for a couple of days, you can complete tour for all 3 locations in 1 day, and still have time to spare for dinner in Seoul.

Do note that due to the sensitivity of Joint Security Area(JSA), visit to the site need at least 3 days advance notice in order for your tour company to send in your passport details to the authorities for background checks.

With that in mind, we booked the tour and send in all the required documents before even leaving for Seoul.

Our tour starts with registration at PTC's office at Lotte Hotel across the road from Seoul Ibis at 8 am. Shortly afterwards, we boarded a bus for a 40 minutes ride to Imjingak.

Imjingak is the northernmost village in the Civilian Controlled Line (CCL), after which, is approx 5 km zone before the 4 km de-militarised zone begins (DMZ). The CCL is the limit where civilians can travel around freely. Anything beyond this point, you'll need permission from the authorities. The village is built with reunification in mind. It is also the site of the Freedom park and Freedom Bridge, where POWs during the Korean War are repatriated.

Freedom Bridge at Imjingak

At the end of the bridge, is a wall full of well wishes and hope for reunification.
Panoramic view showing the bridge crossing over Imjin River 
This locomotive is used during the Korean war, and is full of bullet holes
The next stop is the most interesting part of the tour. Into the JSA itself. The bus took us past the military checkpoint at CCL (picking up a UNC Soldier along the way, who will be our escort for the whole time we are in the DMZ) into Camp Bonifas, where we had a short briefing on what not to do when we are visiting the JSA. As the Korean war ended with a truce and not a peace treaty, DPRK and ROK are still technically at war and thus, the atmosphere is very tense. Due to this, we are also required to sign an indemnity form which is the official proof of visiting JSA.

Finally, from Camp Bonifas, we switched to a military bus for a short ride into the JSA itself. JSA is where the ROK and DPRK government had joint talks and negotiations regarding anything from military talks to joint sports programs and a couple of times, exchange of gunshots.


Joint Security Area (View Larger Map)




Once in JSA, we went into one of the blue meeting rooms straddling the Military Demarcation Line (DML), which is the de-facto border between DPRK and ROK. Photography is allowed here, but only in the direction of the North. 


Waltzing into North Korea. On the left of the concrete divider is North Korea, on the right is South Korea.

Looking into North Korea


Guard standing on the North Korean access door to the room
Other than our UNC escort, 2 additional guards stand at attention inside the room, ready for any incursion from the North. It is also in here where we can physically step across the border into North Korea.

After this, we re-board the bus and went to the spot where the Axe Murder Incident took place and the Bridge of No Return.

The exact location of the tree where the Axe Murder Incident is centred on
Bridge of no return
After lunch (included in the itinerary and served in Imjingak), we went back north across the CCL and into Dorasan Station and Observatory. Dorasan station is built in preparation of eventual reunification. Even though most of the station is not in operation at the moment, it can be opened at very short notice. 2 empty trains from Seoul stopped here daily as a symbolic gesture of reunification.

Inside the Dorasan Station, everything is ready for the day of reunification


At Dorasan observatory, one have a bird's eye view into North Korea and even see Kaesong industrial estate on a clear day. But unfortunately, due to the sensitivity of the area, visitors have to stand behind a line to take any photos, which pretty much ensure you can only see the sky and not the landscape.

Dorasan Observatory. The yellow line is the limit where we can take photos
The last stop on our tour is the 3rd infiltration tunnel. During the height of the Cold War, North Korea dug invasion tunnels across the borders. The first tunnel was accidentally found in 1974 by an Army patrol who discovered steam rising from the ground. Subsequent search turned up 3 other tunnels at different locations along the border. The largest of it is around 2 m high and 2 m wide.

To enter the tunnel, you can either choose to walk down or for a small fee, to take a "shuttle tram" down. Walking involves a 300 m long slope down to 74 m below the surface. Once you reach the bottom, there is another 300 m distance to walk to point where concrete walls are built by the South. So, a round trip by walking will be 1.2 km.

Unfortunately, because the tunnel is considered a sensitive military installation, photography are not allowed inside the tunnel.

By the time we return to Seoul, it's dinner time. We decided to head to one of the many tented stalls in Namdaemun night market. The food here is priced lower than restaurant, and the experience is unique. We ordered BBQ pork meat, Ramyeon, Seafood Pancake (전) and a bottle of Soju. Total damage, less than KRW 20,000.


Directions from Seoul Station to Namdaemun Market (View Larger Map)

Stall owner, an Ah-ju-ma
BBQ Pork meat with accompanying sauce
Seafood Pancake
Next one: Visiting the first of 2 palaces of Joseon Dynasty, Changdeok-gung.