"안녕하세요 - Annyeonghasaeyo". Seoul, South Korea - Day 7 : Changdeok-gung

This is the second last post of the report for my recent trip to Seoul, South Korea. If you have any questions, please feel free to post your question in the comments section, I will try my best to answer.

The earlier reports are as follow:
Part 0: Planning
Part 1: Setting foot in Seoul
Part 2: Skiing in Yongpyong
Part 3: COEX Aquarium & Namsan Tower
Part 4: The Korean DMZ

Changdeok-gung palace

We reserved the last 2 days of our stay in Seoul for visiting of the 2 main Joseon Dynasty imperial palaces.

The Korean Peninsula was ruled by the Joseon Dynasty from AD 1392 to 1897 with it's capital in modern day Seoul. After which, it came under Japanese rule until the surrender of the Japanese Forces in World War 2.

There are 5 palaces located in Modern Day Seoul. They are Gyeongbok-gung (경복궁), Changdeok-gung (창덕궁), Deoksu-gung (덕수궁), Changyeong-gung (창경궁) and Gyeonghui-gung (경희궁).

The biggest and grandest of them all are the Gyeongbok-gung, which served as the seat of power of Joseon from 1395 until it was razed by the Japanese invasion in 1592. The royal seat then moved to Changdeok-gung for the next three centuries while Gyeongbok-gung lies in ruins. In 1867, the restoration of Gyeongbok-gung was completed and the seat of power once again moved back to Gyeongbok-gung.

Both palaces suffers extensive damages in the Japanese occupation of Korea from 1897 to 1945 with many of the original buildings destroyed. In the late 1980s, the government of South Korea started the restoration of the Joseon palaces, thus most of the buildings we see now are in it's re-built state.

Following advices from a friend, we reserved 1 day each for visiting Gyeongbok-gung and Changdeok-gung. 

The first palace we visit is Changdeok-gung, to reach there, take subway Orange line to Anguk station, exit number 3 and walk east about 100m to the main entrance. Ticket price costs KRW 3,000 for adults, KRW 1,500 for youths 7-24 year olds and free for children below 7 years old.

Walking direction from Anguk Station to Changdeok-gung main entrance. (View Larger Map)

What makes this palace unique as compared to other east asian palaces of the time is that instead of terra-forming the surrounding terrain to suit palace architecture, the designers of this palace designed the buildings according to the surrounding environment. Therefore, there is very little symmetry along the north-south axis so prevalent among east asian palaces such as Gyeongbok-gung and Forbidden City in Beijing, China.

Map of Changdeok-gung. Notice the lack of symmetry in the palace layout.

Building of the throne room

Throne room of the king

The bridge in the foreground is called Geumcheongyo Bridge. Built in AD 1411, it the oldest bridge in Seoul.

One thing not to be missed when visiting Changdeok-gung is the "Huwon (rear palace)" behind the main palace grounds which are only accessible via "Secret Garden" guided tour. Guided tour costs an additional KRW 5,000 and must be booked in advance from their website and is available in Korea, English, Chinese and Japanese languages.

Walking direction to the "Secret Garden" entrance

Entrance to the "Secret Garden"

Temperatures below zero means walking on the frozen pond is now possible.

The (now dry) moat surrounding the palace grounds

One of the oldest tree in the palace grounds, the Hyangnamu. Estimated to be 700 years old.

Next, visiting Gyeongbokgung

"안녕하세요 - Annyeonghasaeyo". Seoul, South Korea - Day 6 : The Korean DMZ

This is the 4th part of my Seoul, South Korea series. The earlier parts can be found in the following links. If you have any questions, please feel free to post your question in the comments section, I will try my best to answer.

Part 0 - Planning
Part 1 - Day 1 and 2: Setting foot in Seoul
Part 2 - Day 3 and 4: Skiing at YongPyong
Part 3 - COEX Aquarium & Namsan Tower

Into the Korean DMZ

The next morning, we woke up early for the DMZ tour, which we booked from Panmunjeom Travel Centre.

Note to readers: To better understand the division between North Korea (DPRK) and South Korea (ROK), you can read in more details on the Division of Korea at Wikipedia.

There are 3 locations which most tour companies will bring tourists to. The first - and most exciting - is the Joint Security Area (JSA) , the second one is Dorasan train station and observatory, and the last is the 3rd infiltration tunnel.

Most tour company will offer a combination or all 3 tours. For those who are in town for a couple of days, you can complete tour for all 3 locations in 1 day, and still have time to spare for dinner in Seoul.

Do note that due to the sensitivity of Joint Security Area(JSA), visit to the site need at least 3 days advance notice in order for your tour company to send in your passport details to the authorities for background checks.

With that in mind, we booked the tour and send in all the required documents before even leaving for Seoul.

Our tour starts with registration at PTC's office at Lotte Hotel across the road from Seoul Ibis at 8 am. Shortly afterwards, we boarded a bus for a 40 minutes ride to Imjingak.

Imjingak is the northernmost village in the Civilian Controlled Line (CCL), after which, is approx 5 km zone before the 4 km de-militarised zone begins (DMZ). The CCL is the limit where civilians can travel around freely. Anything beyond this point, you'll need permission from the authorities. The village is built with reunification in mind. It is also the site of the Freedom park and Freedom Bridge, where POWs during the Korean War are repatriated.

Freedom Bridge at Imjingak

At the end of the bridge, is a wall full of well wishes and hope for reunification.

Panoramic view showing the bridge crossing over Imjin River 

This locomotive is used during the Korean war, and is full of bullet holes

The next stop is the most interesting part of the tour. Into the JSA itself. The bus took us past the military checkpoint at CCL (picking up a UNC Soldier along the way, who will be our escort for the whole time we are in the DMZ) into Camp Bonifas, where we had a short briefing on what not to do when we are visiting the JSA. As the Korean war ended with a truce and not a peace treaty, DPRK and ROK are still technically at war and thus, the atmosphere is very tense. Due to this, we are also required to sign an indemnity form which is the official proof of visiting JSA.

Finally, from Camp Bonifas, we switched to a military bus for a short ride into the JSA itself. JSA is where the ROK and DPRK government had joint talks and negotiations regarding anything from military talks to joint sports programs and a couple of times, exchange of gunshots.

Joint Security Area (View Larger Map)

Once in JSA, we went into one of the blue meeting rooms straddling the Military Demarcation Line (DML), which is the de-facto border between DPRK and ROK. Photography is allowed here, but only in the direction of the North. 

Waltzing into North Korea. On the left of the concrete divider is North Korea, on the right is South Korea.

Looking into North Korea

Guard standing on the North Korean access door to the room

Other than our UNC escort, 2 additional guards stand at attention inside the room, ready for any incursion from the North. It is also in here where we can physically step across the border into North Korea.

After this, we re-board the bus and went to the spot where the Axe Murder Incident took place and the Bridge of No Return.

The exact location of the tree where the Axe Murder Incident is centred on

Bridge of no return

After lunch (included in the itinerary and served in Imjingak), we went back north across the CCL and into Dorasan Station and Observatory. Dorasan station is built in preparation of eventual reunification. Even though most of the station is not in operation at the moment, it can be opened at very short notice. 2 empty trains from Seoul stopped here daily as a symbolic gesture of reunification.

Inside the Dorasan Station, everything is ready for the day of reunification

At Dorasan observatory, one have a bird's eye view into North Korea and even see Kaesong industrial estate on a clear day. But unfortunately, due to the sensitivity of the area, visitors have to stand behind a line to take any photos, which pretty much ensure you can only see the sky and not the landscape.

Dorasan Observatory. The yellow line is the limit where we can take photos

The last stop on our tour is the 3rd infiltration tunnel. During the height of the Cold War, North Korea dug invasion tunnels across the borders. The first tunnel was accidentally found in 1974 by an Army patrol who discovered steam rising from the ground. Subsequent search turned up 3 other tunnels at different locations along the border. The largest of it is around 2 m high and 2 m wide.

To enter the tunnel, you can either choose to walk down or for a small fee, to take a "shuttle tram" down. Walking involves a 300 m long slope down to 74 m below the surface. Once you reach the bottom, there is another 300 m distance to walk to point where concrete walls are built by the South. So, a round trip by walking will be 1.2 km.

Unfortunately, because the tunnel is considered a sensitive military installation, photography are not allowed inside the tunnel.

By the time we return to Seoul, it's dinner time. We decided to head to one of the many tented stalls in Namdaemun night market. The food here is priced lower than restaurant, and the experience is unique. We ordered BBQ pork meat, Ramyeon, Seafood Pancake (전) and a bottle of Soju. Total damage, less than KRW 20,000.

Directions from Seoul Station to Namdaemun Market (View Larger Map)

Stall owner, an Ah-ju-ma

BBQ Pork meat with accompanying sauce

Seafood Pancake

Next one: Visiting the first of 2 palaces of Joseon Dynasty, Changdeok-gung.

안녕하세요 - Annyeonghasaeyo". Seoul, South Korea - Day 5 : COEX Aquarium & Namsan Tower

This is the 3rd part of my Seoul, South Korea series. The earlier parts are as follow. If you have any questions, please feel free to post your question in the comments section, I will try my best to answer.

Part 0 - Planning
Part 1 - Day 1 and 2: Setting foot in Seoul
Part 2 - Day 3 and 4: Skiing at YongPyong

In the footnote of Part 2, I mentioned that I intended to publish this together with my tour of DMZ, but I realised that the visit to DMZ warrants it's own page due to it's rich historical content.

COEX Aquarium, Namsan Tower (a.k.a. Seoul Tower)

Foreseeing that we will be tired after our skiing trip, the 5th day is planned to be a relaxing, free and easy day. So by the time we got out of the hotel, it's almost 10 am. Brunch, we decided to be at Macdonalds since we want to try the Bulgogi Burger.

After lunch, its down to the subway to go to COEX mall. Little did we know, the whole mall undergoing major renovations and none of the stores have anything which represents a shop. The only shops open are a couple of cafes and the multiplex cinema, and thankfully, the aquarium. Since we had nothing to do, we head in for some close encounters of the fishy kind.

Location of COEX mall. Take Green Line to Samseong Station (View Larger Map)

The COEX aquarium is divided into different sections exhibiting marine life forms from different part of the world. The aquarium tries as much as possible to recreate the native habitat from where the fishes come from. So, it's as if you are transported from one part of the world to another part of the world in an instant.

Piranhas in a tank. LOTS of them...

Animal feeding time is also something not to be missed, especially for those with children. Kids will enjoy the feeding time tremendously. The only downside of the aquarium is, most of the explanations are in Korean language and very little English texts.

Mr Shark, why are you always looking so pissed?

By the time we're out of the aquarium, it's almost 4pm. As it is winter and the sun sets early, we immediately take the subway back to Myeongdong to go up Namsan (lit. South Mountain) and Namsan tower (also known as Seoul tower) to catch the sunset.

To reach the top,  you can either take the public bus or the cable car. Namsan Suwan Bus number 02 and 05 are available from Myeongdong station exit 3 while bus number 03 are available from Seoul Station.

To take the cable car, a 10 minutes uphill walk is required. Take exit 3 from Myeongdong station and turn right. Follow the road on the right side of Peninsula hotel and you'll reach the cable car station. Tickets cost KRW 6.500 one way and KRW 8,000 return. So unless you want to experience public bus on the way down, buying return ticket makes more sense.

Walking directions from Myeongdong station(A) to Namsan cable car station(B). (View Larger Map)

Once you're up on Namsan, going up the tower observatory deck costs another KRW 9,000. I'm not exactly a big fan of viewing towers because the best way to experience a city is down in the streets itself. But going to highest vantage point in Seoul has it's pros, and that is watching the beautiful sunset and the "magic hour" afterwards, when the sky is still a shade of dark blue with a hint of orange from the setting sun, but the city lights has already turned on.

At the observatory deck, you get a 360 degrees view (which tower observatory don't?) of the Seoul skyline. And you can even send postcards from the post office up here. YES!, you can buy postcards and stamps and post them right up on the tower.

Sending postcards back home. In the end, we reached Singapore earlier than these.

For those who are hungry, there are a about half a dozen of restaurants, cafes and fast food up on Namsan, and most seems quite popular with the local Seoulites. I cannot comment much on this since I decided that the best food are still to be found in the many alleyways in the city itself.

Straight line distance back home

Namsan Tower basking in it's own light

One last thing. If you're visiting with you're significant other, on the right of the tower (looking from the cable car station), there is an area where there are literally thousands and thousands of love locks. Couples will lock padlocks with the love message hanging on it on the railings before throwing away the keys. This is to signify their everlasting love. So lovebirds, bring your locks (unless you are willing to buy padlocks at inflated pricing at the souvenir shops at Namsan tower itself).

Up next. Into a warzone, the Korean De-Militarised Zone.

"안녕하세요 - Annyeonghasaeyo". Seoul, South Korea - Day 3 & 4: Skiing at Yong Pyong

This is the 2nd part on my recent Seoul trip. Part 0 (Planning phase) can be found here, and part 1 (day 1 & 2) can be found here. If you have any questions, please feel free to post your question in the comments section, I will try my best to answer.

It's skiing time!!!

As mentioned in the planning phase, our trip is right in the middle of winter, so skiing is an activity which we wanted to try, especially since there is nowhere we can ski in tropical Singapore.

Since we don't speak or read Korean and it will be our first time skiing, we decided to search online for local tour companies who offers skiing tours with English or Chinese speaking guide.

After much searching, we finally decided on a company called Grace Travel. At KRW 500,000 per person, their price don't come cheap. But it did include 2 way transport, basic ski lesson, 1 full-day lift pass, all ski equipment and a gondola tour to Dragon Peak, the filming scene of Winter Sonata.

So, at 730am on the 3rd day, we checkout of Ibis Myeongdong and waited for the tour company's minivan to pick us up outside our hotel. We packed for 2D1N and kept the rest of our luggage with the Concierge. The minivan took us to outside Lotte world where we transferred to another bigger bus which will take us to Yongpyong ski resort.

2 hours later, (Yongpyong is around 150km from Seoul), we arrived at the resort and met with our local guide, Mr Kim. Turns out, he is the owner of a pension where we will also be staying in, and is also our skiing coach.

For the benefit of those who are unfamiliar with the word "pension" in the accommodation context, it is another term for "bed & breakfast" used more commonly in places with continental Europe influence - and rather strangely, Korea and Japan.

The pension he owns lies in a small valley around 10 minutes drive from the resort. According to him, he built the pension together with his father about 5 years ago and has been managing it full time since.

The front lawn of the pension, covered in a think layer of snow

The main building is the residence where Mr Kim stays with his parents and brother. And then there is a small cafe opposite his house where breakfast, lunch, tea and dinner are served. And finally there is the guest accommodation itself, which is the biggest building amongst the 3.

View out from our room

For the golfers to practice their swing during summer, a mini-golf driving range.

There are total of 9 themed rooms, all named after tea leaves. 4 of them are double rooms for couples while the other 5 are for family of 4 or more. You can find more information(and pictures) on the pension on his website here.

The owner's 2 dogs

The small stream, which is currently frozen solid, behind the pension

Panoramic shot of the small stream

After checking in and dropping our luggage in our room, we went to the local ski rental shop to suit and gear up in preparation of the ski session.

The first 4 to 5 hours are spent learning the basics of skiing. One of the most difficult part of learning is how to recover from a fall, since due to the ski boots, our ankles cannot bend and therefore it is difficult to get up. Another part which drain our stamina is sidestepping, which involves walking up the slope with the ski stuck on your boots sideways. like a crab.

Finally, after exhausting almost all our energy , our coach decided that we're ready for the beginner slope. So up we go the slope on the ski lift and did the first proper skiing of our life. All i can say is, the effort we put in earlier in the day is not in vain. We had one of hell of a time going down the slope. I lost count how many times we skied down, but I estimate to be around 8-10 times in 1 hour 30 minutes.

That night, our host brought us to a local Korean BBQ restaurant. Needless to say, after a tiring but enjoyable day, we ate like as if we can finish one cow each. It is here that our host taught us how to eat Korean BBQ the proper way with guests. First, using your left hand, you take the fresh lettuce and wrap the roasted meat in it. Then with your right hand, you toast your host/guest with Soju before drinking it and eating the wrap.

The next morning, we woke up late and proceed to the owner's house for breakfast (because it is the low season, breakfast is served in the house instead of the cafe). It's a simple but tasty breakfast consisting of mini mandarin oranges, cereal, bread, sausages and hard boiled eggs.

If you are thinking of heading to Yong Pyong for skiing or just for a weekend getaway, I strongly recommend contacting Mr Kim and staying at his pension.

By the time we are done with breakfast, it's almost time to head up Dragon's peak. Our Host, picked us up in his SUV and drove us back to Yong Pyong resort to take the cable car up to the peak. As one of the ski slopes starts at Dragon's peak, the cable car is also used for skiiers and snowboarders.

Alighting from the cable car, we are greeted by the cold wind blowing across the peak, but what a sight. A picture is worth a thousands words, so multiple pictures are worth tens of thousands words. Therefore, I'll let the pictures do the talking.

The path to Dragon Peak

Me, playing with snow

Panoramic shot at Dragon Peak

Time to leave Dragon Peak, back towards the resort and the bus back to Seoul

By the time we got back to Seoul, it's nearly 7:30 pm. The shuttle bus dropped us back outside Lotte World and we took the subway back to Ibis Seoul Myeongdong.

As we are still rather tired from skiing the previous day, we had a simple and quick dinner nearby out hotel and turn in early for the night.

Next, DMZ and Panmunjom tour